PCM (new to me)

Ordered a PCM from shipecm.com. It arrived yesterday and replaced today.

Mine was sometimes idling rough and mpg was horrible. Newly installed pcm seems better idling, hope appetite will lowering soon. ;)

u-joints

Spicer u-joints arrived

front axle shaft oil seal replace

Replaced a little leaky front axle passenger side oil seal. Actually lip seems good but spring seems damaged

grease day

 ball joints, tie rods and u-joints are all greased ;)

maintenance

Fuel pressure tested and:

- 39psi at idle and vacuum disconnected, there was no change
- found a leak in the vacuum line between fuel pressure regulator and manifold.
- replaced a vacuum line and got 39psi key turn, 31psi at idle and jump to 39psi when vacuum line disconnected.  

key ON

 

Engine run - no response when disconnecting fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.

 key OFF

Replaced vacuum line and checked again.

key ON

Engine run

Vacuum line disconnected

engine OFF

Spark plugs replaced, NGK V-Power Spark Plug ZFR5N.

Hatch latch replaced with a used one, mine was worn out and rattling.

AW4 check

Transmission is not changing gear while cold and suspected solenoids. Dropped a transmission pan. 

- found 3 10mm bolts on magnets
- oil screen is holding just 1 bolt
- fluid is red, no bad smell, no water etc
- magnets is clean

Solenoids were cleaned with carb cleaner and they were working normal under 12V test.

 Pan installed back and topped up with new fluid, will see how gear changes.

NP242 overhaul

 After long winter, finally spring arrives. 

Started and successfully finished transfercase rebuild using 

1. NP242 TRANSFER CASE CHAIN BORG-WARNER HV-028 1" WIDE 36 LINKS 

2. SKF STCK242 Transfer Case Overhaul Kit

filled with S-Oil Seven ATF III

 

It was leaky all around, front &  and rear output, shifter linkage etc.

Bearings were not so bad, all were somehow noisy, magnet is covered with an amount of very fine metal dust.

chirping noise

Recently had a chirping noise from underside. It sounds while driving and faster than tire rotation. Suspected front drive shaft double joint, but there was no unnecessary movement, everything seems okay. Checked rear driveshaft u-joints and found axle side one was shot. Replaced it with Moog 280 one.

Quick Guide to Diagnosing Differential & Driveline Noises

 https://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/03/30/quick-guide-to-diagnosing-differential-driveline-noises/

 

We don’t know which sounds worse—car guys singing show tunes in the shower or a howling differential. While there is no help for our singing, we can help you diagnose the sounds coming from a differential gone bad.

Image/Commons Wikimedia

A clunk, whine, or howl can signal a worn-out pinion gear, bad pinion bearings, or a faulty gear installation. Sometimes, the noise is not differential-related, but is caused by other driveline or axle components. This guide will help you match up the noise you’re hearing with the differential or axle component making it, or at least get you in the ballpark.

Noise: Howl while decelerating (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Loose pinion bearing preload

Noise: Howl with whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn rear pinion bearing or worn gear set

Noise: Howl without whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading

Noise: Howling while accelerating over a small speed range (gears previously quiet)
Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading

Noise: Howling after gear set installation
Cause: Faulty gears or improper installation

Noise: Low-pitch rumble at all speeds over 20 miles per hour
Cause: Worn carrier bearings

Noise: Whirring during acceleration/deceleration at about 10 miles per hour
Cause: Worn pinion bearings

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See Also:
Ask Away! with Jeff Smith: How to Fix Driveline Vibrations by Adjusting Pinion Angle
Monday Mailbag: Solving Recurring Driveline Vibration

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Noise: Banging or clunking while making a turn, backing up, or rapid deceleration (like on a freeway off-ramp). Noise gets worse in warmer weather
Cause: Posi chatter due to improper lubrication; worn clutches or spider gears; improper assembly

Noise: Banging, crunching, or popping while making a turn. Noise not affected by temperature
Cause: Badly worn or broken spider gears

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every two to three feet during acceleration and deceleration
Cause: Damaged or broken pinion gear tooth or teeth

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Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every two to three feet during acceleration or deceleration, but not both
Cause: High spot or heavy chip on pinion gear tooth

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every eight feet during acceleration and deceleration
Cause: Damaged or broken ring gear tooth or teeth

Noise: Banging or heavy clicking every eight feet during acceleration or deceleration, but not both
Cause: High spot or heavy chip on ring gear tooth

Noise: Clicking while decelerating from 20 miles per hour to a complete stop
Cause: Worn carrier case-side gear bores

Noise: Rumble or clicking that gets worse during hard turns
Cause: Bad wheel bearings

Noise: Driveline squeaking or grinding at any speed
Cause: Worn or damaged U-joints

Noise: Clunking when depressing the throttle pedal (takeoff)
Cause: Worn U-joints; worn spider gears; worn axle splines; excessive gear backlash; loose yoke splines; worn slip yoke splines

Noise: Clunk immediately after taking off from a stop
Cause: Worn slip yoke splines

Noise: Steady vibration that increases with speed
Cause: Worn U-joint or out-of-balance driveshaft

Noise: Cyclic vibration that varies in intensity. Intensity increases at a specific speed range, worsens during deceleration
Cause: Pinion angle too low (not parallel with front yoke on driveshaft)