Sunday, February 27, 2011
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Monday, January 31, 2011
Sunday, January 23, 2011
How to Trouble Shoot Your NO START XJ or MJ
copied from xjtalk a jeep cherokee forum; thanks LizardRunner
What do you do when an XJ doesn’t start? First thing most people tend to do is throw parts at the problem. While this can work in most cases, it has the ability to actually cause more problems than it solves. Here's a series of steps and logical decisions that should solve pretty much any and all starting problems.
Before we get into troubleshooting the causes, there is a common problem that can easily mask the original problem. If you crank an engine too long when it isn’t starting, you could have flooded the engine during your attempts to start it. Flooding is nothing more than getting too much fuel in the combustion chamber, leading to a situation where there is simply not enough oxygen available to support ignition. Too many times there is enough gas in the cylinder to wet the plugs, and after fixing the actual problem, it still doesn’t start due to being flooded. You don’t realize you fixed the problem, so you then keep throwing parts and Dollars at a non-existent problem.
The first step is to determine the circumstances under which the starting problem occurred.
1.Have you done any work on the engine, and then it won’t start?
2. Were you driving and the engine quit and won’t start?
3. Does it start only when cold/hot?
4. Does it try to start? In other words do you feel it try to fire?
IF #1 IS TRUE, you have most likely caused the problem in your work.
1)1- Did you mess with the distributor/plugs/wires?
1)2- Did you mess with the fuel system?
1)3- Did you wash the engine?
We will hit a few of the most common things that can go wrong for the #1 situation.
If #1)1 is true; and you removed the distributor, most likely you got the distributor inserted incorrectly. The most common error in this event is to get the distributor inserted with the rotor 180 degrees off. This is not that hard to do and the Engine may even start, it will run crappy if it does start. What makes this so easy to do: The rotor turns at half the rate of the crank and it is easy to set the rotor in place when the crank is showing 0 degrees, but the engine isn’t on the compression stroke. To Remedy this, you need to index your distributor. Now if you didn’t pull the distributor but replaced the spark plugs or wires, you could have gotten the wires out of sequence. The firing sequence is cast into the top of the intake manifold. The rule on doing plugs is to remove one at a time. ( have seen this happen more than once)
Make sure you didn’t pull a no-brainer and forget to install the rotor back in the distributor or that you have the coil wire disconnected.
If #1)2 Is true; and you were messing with the fuel system, you need to make sure that you still have fuel pressure at the fuel rail. When you turn on the ignition switch, before you actually start to crank it, you should be able to hear that the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops.
If the fuel pump keeps running you have one of two problems. Either the fuel pressure regulator is stuck open, or you have a defective fuel pump. A defective fuel pump that continues to run, normally won’t cause a no start condition, since it is simply going to generate a higher fuel pressure, so the fuel pressure regulator is most likely the problem. A fuel pressure tester will tell you a lot. With the vacuum hose disconnected from the regulator, you should have about 39 lbs of pressure.
If you don’t hear the fuel pump, the problem can be simply a very quiet pump or a defective pump, or a bad power source for the pump. Turn the key to the On Position, and remove the protective cap from the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. A Schrader valve is the type of valve you have on a tire’s valve stem. If you have fuel pressure, when you depress the center of the valve, you should get a healthy squirt of fuel. If you have either measured the fuel pressure or done the quick test and there seems to be fuel pressure, you can pretty much rule out the fuel system, other than not having the injectors plugged in or the computer not firing the injectors, but for now don’t go down that path. At this point, you need to troubleshoot the power to the pump.
If #1)3 Is true; you most likely got the distributor wet. There is a problem with getting the throttle position sensor wet, but that very rarely will cause a no start condition. Unscrew the distributor cap and get some paper towels and dry the inside of the rotor cap and the rotor. Let all condensation evaporate and then put the cap and rotor back on. Wet wires will rarely cause a no start condition. Make Sure The Engine Didn't Get Flooded while trying to start.
If you weren’t working on the engine or even have the hood open, you will need to go down a different path.
The first task is to determine that you have both fuel and spark. First, turn on the key and test the fuel pressure, either with a gauge or the shade tree mechanic technique of depressing the center of the Schrader valve. If you don’t have fuel pressure, then you will go to the troubleshooting the fuel system section.
To test the spark, pull a spark plug. Make sure the plug isn’t wet from gas or very corroded. Push the spark plug back on the wire and lay the plug metal body on a metal part of the engine. Have a buddy crank the engine (or use a remote starter) and watch for a spark from the plug. If you're getting spark, you most likely don’t have a problem with the ignition. It is possible to have a defective Cam Position Sensor in the distributor that is causing the spark to happen at the wrong time, but this is not real common. Probably the most common source of no spark is the crankshaft position sensor. They have several failure scenarios. A)The wire to the cps can flop over against the exhaust header and be melted. B) the connector can be corroded, or the sensor is just bad. Visually inspect for a melted wire, and then plug and unplug the connector a few times for good measure. Then check to see if you have spark. If still no spark, a new cps will fix the problem in the majority of cases. A bad camshaft position sensor will normally not cause a lack of spark, only an erratic spark. If you still have no spark, in the earlier models there is a connector C101 above the vacuum brake booster that gets intermittent. Plug and unplug it a couple of times and look for spark. If there is still none, perform the same task on the firewall connector that goes from the engine compartment into the back of the fuse block.
If none of that helps, crawl under the dash and pull the computer down where you can plug and unplug the computer (ECU) a couple of times. If there is still no spark there are only a few things that can cause it. A bad coil/ignition module, a bad ECU, or a bad ignition switch that isn’t feeding power to the ignition module or the ECU are the most likely the problem. I hope to be able to post a bit more on where to probe with a voltmeter to troubleshoot this condition.
If you have both spark and fuel pressure, the problem can only be a couple of things. Most commonly, the engine is flooded and the plugs are wet, but it could be a timing problem. Crank it for a few seconds, then go smell the tailpipe. Do you smell gas? If so, the injectors are most likely working and the fuel system is fine. There are only three sensors on the Renix system that will cause a no start condition. The most common is the CPS, surprisingly the second is the MAP sensor. Make sure the hardline from the throttle body runs to the MAP and that the MAP is plugged in. Plug and unplug the MAP connector a couple of times for good measure.
Before trying to crank the engine any more, I recommend getting the cheapest set of Champion spark plugs you can find and pull the existing plugs. If you have an air compressor, spray air down the spark plug holes to evaporate any excess gas. Otherwise crank over the engine a few revolutions with the plugs removed. Hold the gas pedal all the way down when you do this. The computer will sense the throttle position as a flooded condition and will stop any new fuel flow. Once you complete this procedure, put in the new plugs and replace the wires, making sure to get them on the right plugs.
A note on starting a Cherorokee: When starting a computerized engine, do not depress the gas pedal until the engine actually fires and starts. The computer will adjust the fuel air mixture automatically. Pumping the gas pedal when starting can actually screw up the computer and confuse it. If in doubt, disconnect the positive battery cable for a couple of minutes. This will reset the computer. It may run a bit rough for the first few minutes until it relearns the operating parameters of the engine, but it should get it in a startable condition.
If you haven’t been screwing with the ignition and could not have indexed the distributor incorrectly, and you have spark and fuel pressure after having made sure the plugs aren’t wet, the engine should start. If it simply never fires, and you can smell at least a little raw gas in the exhaust, timing is pretty much the only thing left other than the injectors not firing. To test the lack of fuel in the cylinders scenario, have a buddy crank the engine and squirt a little starting fluid down the throttel body. If it tries to fire, the injectors are not giving you any gas. If that doesn't get an attempt to fire up it is probably back to the timing issue. If you have done the CPS routine, then you either have a bad camshaft sensor, bad computer, or bad wiring. It is possible that the coil is so weak that it will spark the plugs when they are not under compression, but doesn’t have enough power to spark under compression. The ECU is probably the least common, followed by the cam position sensor, and the coil. ( GROUNDING straps are also good to check at this point)
If you are not getting fuel pressure, there are several possible problems. If this happens when wheeling or shortly there after, you could have mashed the fuel lines running from the tank to the fuel rail. Do a good visual inspection. For good measure, change the fuel filter. They are cheap and it can’t hurt. If you don’t hear the fuel pump ever run, then the most common failure is the fuel pump ballast resistor. It is white and mounted on the drivers side fenderwell. It has two push on terminals. The ballast resistor is really only there to cut the noise in the fuel pump. Take a jumper wire and short the two wires going to the resistor together. Then turn on the switch and listen for the pump. If that doesn’t fix it, the next test is to measure the voltage on both sides of the resistor when the key is on. You should read 12 volts on one side and between 5 and 12 volts on the other side, depending if the pump is running or not. If you don’t have voltage on either side, you can possibly have a bad fuel pump relay, but the relay is normally only used to short across the resistor and does not feed the power to the resistor, so I tend not to blame the relay. You will need to follow back up the wiring to find where the break in the power is happening. Some people have claimed the key switch can be causing the problem, but I haven’t looked at the schematic to verify if that can be the case. Hopefully I can look into that in the future.
If there is power on both sides of the resistor and it is 12v on both sides at all times, then you either have an open power wire to the pump, an open ground wire on the pump, or a bad pump. You can crawl under the back and measure the voltage going to the pump. If you have 12 on both the pump wires, then you have a bad ground on the pump in the tank. If you have 12v on one side and 0v on the other, the pump is most likely bad.
Replacing the fuel pump is a pain. If you are not mechanically inclined then don’t bother trying it yourself. There are two ways to change the pump. You either remove the gas tank and then change the pump or change the pump with the tank in place. Either way, the tank needs to be as empty as possible. If it is not below about a quarter of a tank, then you should siphon or pump the fuel out of the tank before proceeding.
If you have fuel pressure and spark but no fire and you don’t smell gas in the exhaust pipe, your injectors may not be firing. The best way to troubleshoot this condition is to use a set of noid lights to test that the injectors are getting pulses. They mount between the injector and the harness. They will flash if there is injector drive when you crank the engine. If they do not flash, you most likely have a computer problem since a wiring problem would have to hit all six injector wires to not at least get a sporadic cylinder firing. You can do the plug and unplug routine on C101 and the firewall connector as well as the computer connector. If that doesn’t get the light to working, either the computer is defective or isn’t getting power.
What do you do when an XJ doesn’t start? First thing most people tend to do is throw parts at the problem. While this can work in most cases, it has the ability to actually cause more problems than it solves. Here's a series of steps and logical decisions that should solve pretty much any and all starting problems.
Before we get into troubleshooting the causes, there is a common problem that can easily mask the original problem. If you crank an engine too long when it isn’t starting, you could have flooded the engine during your attempts to start it. Flooding is nothing more than getting too much fuel in the combustion chamber, leading to a situation where there is simply not enough oxygen available to support ignition. Too many times there is enough gas in the cylinder to wet the plugs, and after fixing the actual problem, it still doesn’t start due to being flooded. You don’t realize you fixed the problem, so you then keep throwing parts and Dollars at a non-existent problem.
The first step is to determine the circumstances under which the starting problem occurred.
1.Have you done any work on the engine, and then it won’t start?
2. Were you driving and the engine quit and won’t start?
3. Does it start only when cold/hot?
4. Does it try to start? In other words do you feel it try to fire?
IF #1 IS TRUE, you have most likely caused the problem in your work.
1)1- Did you mess with the distributor/plugs/wires?
1)2- Did you mess with the fuel system?
1)3- Did you wash the engine?
We will hit a few of the most common things that can go wrong for the #1 situation.
If #1)1 is true; and you removed the distributor, most likely you got the distributor inserted incorrectly. The most common error in this event is to get the distributor inserted with the rotor 180 degrees off. This is not that hard to do and the Engine may even start, it will run crappy if it does start. What makes this so easy to do: The rotor turns at half the rate of the crank and it is easy to set the rotor in place when the crank is showing 0 degrees, but the engine isn’t on the compression stroke. To Remedy this, you need to index your distributor. Now if you didn’t pull the distributor but replaced the spark plugs or wires, you could have gotten the wires out of sequence. The firing sequence is cast into the top of the intake manifold. The rule on doing plugs is to remove one at a time. ( have seen this happen more than once)
Make sure you didn’t pull a no-brainer and forget to install the rotor back in the distributor or that you have the coil wire disconnected.
If #1)2 Is true; and you were messing with the fuel system, you need to make sure that you still have fuel pressure at the fuel rail. When you turn on the ignition switch, before you actually start to crank it, you should be able to hear that the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops.
If the fuel pump keeps running you have one of two problems. Either the fuel pressure regulator is stuck open, or you have a defective fuel pump. A defective fuel pump that continues to run, normally won’t cause a no start condition, since it is simply going to generate a higher fuel pressure, so the fuel pressure regulator is most likely the problem. A fuel pressure tester will tell you a lot. With the vacuum hose disconnected from the regulator, you should have about 39 lbs of pressure.
If you don’t hear the fuel pump, the problem can be simply a very quiet pump or a defective pump, or a bad power source for the pump. Turn the key to the On Position, and remove the protective cap from the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. A Schrader valve is the type of valve you have on a tire’s valve stem. If you have fuel pressure, when you depress the center of the valve, you should get a healthy squirt of fuel. If you have either measured the fuel pressure or done the quick test and there seems to be fuel pressure, you can pretty much rule out the fuel system, other than not having the injectors plugged in or the computer not firing the injectors, but for now don’t go down that path. At this point, you need to troubleshoot the power to the pump.
If #1)3 Is true; you most likely got the distributor wet. There is a problem with getting the throttle position sensor wet, but that very rarely will cause a no start condition. Unscrew the distributor cap and get some paper towels and dry the inside of the rotor cap and the rotor. Let all condensation evaporate and then put the cap and rotor back on. Wet wires will rarely cause a no start condition. Make Sure The Engine Didn't Get Flooded while trying to start.
If you weren’t working on the engine or even have the hood open, you will need to go down a different path.
The first task is to determine that you have both fuel and spark. First, turn on the key and test the fuel pressure, either with a gauge or the shade tree mechanic technique of depressing the center of the Schrader valve. If you don’t have fuel pressure, then you will go to the troubleshooting the fuel system section.
To test the spark, pull a spark plug. Make sure the plug isn’t wet from gas or very corroded. Push the spark plug back on the wire and lay the plug metal body on a metal part of the engine. Have a buddy crank the engine (or use a remote starter) and watch for a spark from the plug. If you're getting spark, you most likely don’t have a problem with the ignition. It is possible to have a defective Cam Position Sensor in the distributor that is causing the spark to happen at the wrong time, but this is not real common. Probably the most common source of no spark is the crankshaft position sensor. They have several failure scenarios. A)The wire to the cps can flop over against the exhaust header and be melted. B) the connector can be corroded, or the sensor is just bad. Visually inspect for a melted wire, and then plug and unplug the connector a few times for good measure. Then check to see if you have spark. If still no spark, a new cps will fix the problem in the majority of cases. A bad camshaft position sensor will normally not cause a lack of spark, only an erratic spark. If you still have no spark, in the earlier models there is a connector C101 above the vacuum brake booster that gets intermittent. Plug and unplug it a couple of times and look for spark. If there is still none, perform the same task on the firewall connector that goes from the engine compartment into the back of the fuse block.
If none of that helps, crawl under the dash and pull the computer down where you can plug and unplug the computer (ECU) a couple of times. If there is still no spark there are only a few things that can cause it. A bad coil/ignition module, a bad ECU, or a bad ignition switch that isn’t feeding power to the ignition module or the ECU are the most likely the problem. I hope to be able to post a bit more on where to probe with a voltmeter to troubleshoot this condition.
If you have both spark and fuel pressure, the problem can only be a couple of things. Most commonly, the engine is flooded and the plugs are wet, but it could be a timing problem. Crank it for a few seconds, then go smell the tailpipe. Do you smell gas? If so, the injectors are most likely working and the fuel system is fine. There are only three sensors on the Renix system that will cause a no start condition. The most common is the CPS, surprisingly the second is the MAP sensor. Make sure the hardline from the throttle body runs to the MAP and that the MAP is plugged in. Plug and unplug the MAP connector a couple of times for good measure.
Before trying to crank the engine any more, I recommend getting the cheapest set of Champion spark plugs you can find and pull the existing plugs. If you have an air compressor, spray air down the spark plug holes to evaporate any excess gas. Otherwise crank over the engine a few revolutions with the plugs removed. Hold the gas pedal all the way down when you do this. The computer will sense the throttle position as a flooded condition and will stop any new fuel flow. Once you complete this procedure, put in the new plugs and replace the wires, making sure to get them on the right plugs.
A note on starting a Cherorokee: When starting a computerized engine, do not depress the gas pedal until the engine actually fires and starts. The computer will adjust the fuel air mixture automatically. Pumping the gas pedal when starting can actually screw up the computer and confuse it. If in doubt, disconnect the positive battery cable for a couple of minutes. This will reset the computer. It may run a bit rough for the first few minutes until it relearns the operating parameters of the engine, but it should get it in a startable condition.
If you haven’t been screwing with the ignition and could not have indexed the distributor incorrectly, and you have spark and fuel pressure after having made sure the plugs aren’t wet, the engine should start. If it simply never fires, and you can smell at least a little raw gas in the exhaust, timing is pretty much the only thing left other than the injectors not firing. To test the lack of fuel in the cylinders scenario, have a buddy crank the engine and squirt a little starting fluid down the throttel body. If it tries to fire, the injectors are not giving you any gas. If that doesn't get an attempt to fire up it is probably back to the timing issue. If you have done the CPS routine, then you either have a bad camshaft sensor, bad computer, or bad wiring. It is possible that the coil is so weak that it will spark the plugs when they are not under compression, but doesn’t have enough power to spark under compression. The ECU is probably the least common, followed by the cam position sensor, and the coil. ( GROUNDING straps are also good to check at this point)
If you are not getting fuel pressure, there are several possible problems. If this happens when wheeling or shortly there after, you could have mashed the fuel lines running from the tank to the fuel rail. Do a good visual inspection. For good measure, change the fuel filter. They are cheap and it can’t hurt. If you don’t hear the fuel pump ever run, then the most common failure is the fuel pump ballast resistor. It is white and mounted on the drivers side fenderwell. It has two push on terminals. The ballast resistor is really only there to cut the noise in the fuel pump. Take a jumper wire and short the two wires going to the resistor together. Then turn on the switch and listen for the pump. If that doesn’t fix it, the next test is to measure the voltage on both sides of the resistor when the key is on. You should read 12 volts on one side and between 5 and 12 volts on the other side, depending if the pump is running or not. If you don’t have voltage on either side, you can possibly have a bad fuel pump relay, but the relay is normally only used to short across the resistor and does not feed the power to the resistor, so I tend not to blame the relay. You will need to follow back up the wiring to find where the break in the power is happening. Some people have claimed the key switch can be causing the problem, but I haven’t looked at the schematic to verify if that can be the case. Hopefully I can look into that in the future.
If there is power on both sides of the resistor and it is 12v on both sides at all times, then you either have an open power wire to the pump, an open ground wire on the pump, or a bad pump. You can crawl under the back and measure the voltage going to the pump. If you have 12 on both the pump wires, then you have a bad ground on the pump in the tank. If you have 12v on one side and 0v on the other, the pump is most likely bad.
Replacing the fuel pump is a pain. If you are not mechanically inclined then don’t bother trying it yourself. There are two ways to change the pump. You either remove the gas tank and then change the pump or change the pump with the tank in place. Either way, the tank needs to be as empty as possible. If it is not below about a quarter of a tank, then you should siphon or pump the fuel out of the tank before proceeding.
If you have fuel pressure and spark but no fire and you don’t smell gas in the exhaust pipe, your injectors may not be firing. The best way to troubleshoot this condition is to use a set of noid lights to test that the injectors are getting pulses. They mount between the injector and the harness. They will flash if there is injector drive when you crank the engine. If they do not flash, you most likely have a computer problem since a wiring problem would have to hit all six injector wires to not at least get a sporadic cylinder firing. You can do the plug and unplug routine on C101 and the firewall connector as well as the computer connector. If that doesn’t get the light to working, either the computer is defective or isn’t getting power.
Monday, January 17, 2011
Saturday, January 15, 2011
Winch cleaning and lubrication
Thursday, January 6, 2011
History of Cherokee
copied from xjTalk - a Jeep Cherokee Forum
1984-1996
Much in the same way that American automakers had downsized many of their cars in the previous decade, Jeep downsized one of its nameplates, the Cherokee, for 1984.
Prior to this year, the Cherokee moniker was attached to what amounted to a sportier version of Jeep's Wagoneer. Mostly unchanged since its debut in the early 1960s, the Wagoneer was a large, truck-based, four-door wagon with four-wheel drive.
The former Cherokee, introduced as a 1974, shared most everything with the Wagoneer, including dimensions and engine selections. The major differences between the two were that the Cherokee was initially available only as a two-door (with the same wheelbase and length as the Wagoneer) and the Cherokee cost less than the more luxurious Wagoneer. A four-door Cherokee joined the lineup in 1977.
The 1984 Cherokee shared nothing with its predecessor, save its name. A shorter wheel- base (over 7 inches less than the "old" model, at 101.4 inches) and overall length (at 165.3 inches, a decrease of 21 inches) combined with a much lighter weight of around 3,100 pounds (over 1,000 pounds less than before) went a long way toward better fuel mileage and easier maneuverability, on-road or off. Two-door and four-door body styles were offered.
Styling for the trim Cherokee was chiseled and taut, with muscular wheel well flares and a tall greenhouse that afforded good visibility for driver and passengers alike. The interior continued this theme with a likewise simple dash and control layout. Seating capacity was listed as five, though it was tight for three adults to ride in the backseat.
Trim levels were comprised of the base Cherokee, more luxurious Pioneer and the sporty Chief. The Pioneer featured carpeting, additional instrument panel gauges, full center console and a rear window wiper/washer. The Chief was the most stylin' of the trio with blackout exterior trim, hood striping and white-lettered tires.
Motive force came in the form of either four- or six-cylinder power. The 2.5-liter four banger inhaled its fuel and air through a one-barrel carburetor and made 105 horsepower. The optional, 2.8-liter, two-barrel V6 (which was actually supplied by Chevrolet) produced but 115 horses. Although these powerplants were adequate, serious thrust for the Cherokee was a still a few years away. There were three transmission choices for the V6: a standard four-speed manual, optional five-speed manual and optional three-speed automatic. The four-cylinder was limited to the four-speed manual as its gearbox.
Considered by many as the leader in the four-wheel-drive (4WD) vehicle segment, Jeep offered not one but two 4WD systems for the Cherokee. "Command-Trac" was a part-time, shift-on-the-fly unit and the "Selec-Trac" system allowed the option of full-time 4WD operation. A "Quadra-Link" front suspension design (which featured a solid axle suspended by coil springs and four links) contributed to the Cherokee's quickly acquired reputation for off-road prowess.
The new Cherokee was well received by the motoring press and the buying public alike, with nearly 78,000 Cherokees sold in its first year.
1985 brought the Laredo trim level to the Cherokee family. Standard on the Laredo were most of the features of the Pioneer with upgrades such as plusher interior materials, pinstripes, alloy wheels and chrome grille treatment.
Changes to the Cherokee in general included the addition of front headrests and passenger assist handles (for easier ingress and egress as well as something to hold on to when the driver went hog wild off-road). Two-wheel-drive versions were now offered for those who didn't need the capabilities of four-wheel drive. A few new options debuted as well, such as keyless entry and a Renault-sourced, four-cylinder, turbodiesel engine.
Two major hardware upgrades were hot topics for the Cherokee in 1986. A redesigned and more powerful four-cylinder engine was now standard. The replacement of the stone-age carburetor with fuel injection helped the 2.5-liter mill pump out a respectable 117 horsepower, an increase of 12 horses over the previous motor. Smoother operation and easier starting were other benefits of the more modern induction setup.
Geared toward serious off-road enthusiasts was a new "Off-Highway Vehicle" package that included heavy-duty suspension components, bigger (225/75/15) tires, skid plates, tow hooks, a 4:10 rear axle ratio (to help in climbing up steep grades and slogging through mud) and higher ground clearance.
Serious power became an option in 1987 when Jeep dumped the 2.8 V6 and put a stout, 4.0-liter, inline six-cylinder engine of Jeep's design on the option list. Kicking out 177 horsepower, the new "Power-Tech Six" could catapult the Cherokee from rest to 60 mph in around 9 seconds -- pretty quick, especially for an SUV. Another benefit of the increased muscle was more towing capacity -- rated at 5,000 pounds. The 2.5-liter, four-cylinder was tweaked for an additional four horsepower, for a total of 121 ponies.
A new, electronically controlled, four-speed automatic transmission replaced the former three-cog unit. The new automatic also offered selectable shift modes: Power (which provided better performance through higher-rpm upshifts and quicker downshifts) and Comfort (which was more relaxed and economical in operation). And the primitive, four-speed manual was history, leaving the five-speed for shift-it-yourselfers.
Cosmetically, the Cherokee received the option of two-tone paint. Inside the cabin were found new door trim panels with stowage bins.
A new, loaded-up Limited four-door model debuted halfway through the model year. Just about every luxury, performance and convenience feature was standard on the new top dog Cherokee. The Limited came with the powerful, 4.0-liter inline six teamed with Selec-Trac and could be identified by its color-keyed bumpers, gold wheels and gold pinstripes. Leather seats, power everything, keyless entry and an eight-speaker sound system were additional highlights of the Limited's lengthy standard equipment list.
Other models received minor changes, such as new plaid seats in the Laredo and revised blackout trim on the Chief.
1988 saw the addition of a Limited two-door and the subtraction of the unpopular turbodiesel engine option. Sharp-eyed enthusiasts could discern an '88 by a new eight-slot grille that replaced the former 10-slot unit.
Laredo models received new chrome trim as well as lower bodyside cladding. In an effort to offer a Cherokee for everyone (and leave no part of the potential market uncovered), a Sport two-door model was offered. The Sport added alloy wheels and special graphics to the plain-Jane Cherokee, allowing those on a budget to drive a sharp rig without breaking the bank.
The availability (on models equipped with the 4.0-liter engine, automatic transmission and Selec-Trac) of a four-wheel, antilock braking system (ABS) was the big news for the 1989 Cherokee. Jeep's ABS operated regardless of whether the Cherokee was in 2WD or 4WD (unlike some competitors who offered either only rear-wheel ABS or four-wheel ABS that wouldn't function when the vehicle was in 4WD).
Other functional upgrades for 1989 included two former options that were made standard. Base models received power steering and all Cherokees swapped their former 13.5-gallon fuel tank for a 20-gallon unit.
Changes were few for Jeep's most popular model for 1990. Safety was improved through the fitment of three-point seatbelts for all outboard occupants. And a new overhead console on the Limited featured a compass, outside thermometer and storage compartments for a garage door control and sunglasses.
Power for both the four- and the six-cylinder engines was boosted for 1991. A new, multi-point fuel-injection system helped the four-banger squeeze out 130 horsepower an increase of nine horses over the 1990 model. And the big six now cranked out 190 horsepower, bringing the zero to 60 mph time of the Cherokee down to under nine seconds.
Trim levels were shuffled about; the Pioneer was dropped, a new Briarwood debuted, (identified by its fake woodgrain trim on the bodysides) and a four-door Sport model joined the two-door Sport.
Making life easier for the owner of a '91 Cherokee were new double-sided keys, highlighted underhood service points and an optional illuminated entry system.
1992 saw carpeting added to the standard features of the base Cherokee. And Laredo four-doors could now be fitted with (optional) leather seating, just like the fancier Limited. Other than this, not much else changed for the Cherokee this year.
The Cherokee line was simplified for 1993, as the previous five trim levels gave way to just three; base, Sport and the new Country. The Country featured champagne-colored lower body, fender flares and bumpers as well as most of the luxury features of the defunct Limited. And Sport models were updated with a two-tone treatment that featured black on the lower body sides.
A long-life, stainless steel exhaust system was fitted to all models, helping to lower ownership costs.
Safety refinements were added for 1994. Side-impact beams were now found in the doors, the roof was beefed up for more crush resistance and a center, high-mounted stoplight sat atop the liftgate. Air conditioning now used CFC-free refrigerant.
For those who didn't like the champagne (the color, not the libation) of the year before, the Country was now available with silver as the secondary color. And in an effort to make the base model sound more appealing, the entry-level Cherokee now had the "SE" moniker added to its name.
In spite of looking very much like the 1984 version, the Cherokee continued to be popular among those looking for a manageable (both in size and cost) and capable SUV. 1995 brought a few notable changes, a driver's side airbag and the availability of an automatic (albeit just a three-speed) transmission for the four-cylinder SE. Sport and Country models continued with the 4.0-liter, six-cylinder engine hooked up to either a five-speed manual or four-speed automatic gearbox. A few new colors, such as Moss Green and Aqua Pearl, completed the changes for this year.
Minor refinements continued for the Cherokee in 1996. Both the four- and six-cylinder engines were tweaked to run smoother and quieter. The inline six now produced its power at lower rpm, making it more responsive whether accelerating from a light or towing a trailer up a steep grade.
Safety and reliability were both enhanced this year. An automatic transmission/brake pedal interlock reduced the chance of an accident by requiring the driver to apply the brake when moving the gear selector out of Park. The electrical system was upgraded via a heavy-duty alternator and battery. And the engine received a stiffer block, new aluminum pistons and a new powertrain control module.
In addition to the aforementioned improvements, some new colors, such as Bright Jade and Stone White, helped extend the appeal of the Cherokee, now in its 13th model year.
1997-2001
Fourteen years after it debuted, the Cherokee finally received a facelift, well, actually quite a bit more than a facelift. The $215 million update occurred in 1997 when the front and rear ends were smoothed out, the interior was updated and noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) levels were reduced.
Although one had to look close to pick off a '97 versus an older Cherokee, a more cohesive appearance was achieved via softened corners at the nose and tail and with wheelwell flares that blended into the bumper ends. The front vent windows were dropped for a cleaner look and lessened wind noise, and larger side-view mirrors, new bodyside moldings, new wheels, optional deep-tint glass and a center high-mounted stop lamp completed the changes outside.
Inside, change was much more apparent, as the more modern cabin featured several key improvements in ergonomics, safety and style. A new dash (now with a passenger airbag), revised gauges and a new center stack with easier to use controls for the stereo (now available with both cassette and CD players) and climate control system sported a cleaner design with fewer pieces, which decreased the likelihood of squeaks and rattles. Other interior refinements included new door panels, lighted power mirror and window switches, a trip computer for the overhead console and a new center console that boasted integrated cupholders.
In an effort to improve build quality, Jeep made changes to the plant that made the body panels, using new or reconditioned stamping dies and tighter tolerances. More testing, including all electrical functions and increased use of robotic paint sprayers were employed, as well.
Having made extensive engine refinements in 1996, Jeep left well enough alone, but did improve the electrical system via upgraded connectors and a decreased amount of wiring.
For 1998 trim levels were juggled. The Limited returned to replace the Country as the top-of-the-line Cherokee, and the Classic debuted, slotted between the Sport and the Limited. The Classic added color-keyed bumpers and moldings, a roof rack, air conditioning, power mirrors and alloy wheels to the Sport. Three new colors, Chili Pepper Red, Deep Amethyst and Emerald Green, joined the palette.
Soldiering on into 1999, the Cherokee line continued with minor changes. The Sport model now had color-keyed bumpers and grille, a Sentry Key anti-theft system debuted, heated front seats became optional on the Limited, and engine efficiency was improved via revised electronics and a new exhaust catalyst.
The 2000 Cherokee got a more refined version of the 4.0-liter inline six. Introduced the previous year in the Grand Cherokee, the revamped engine ran quieter and cleaner (it now met Low Emission Vehicle standards) than the previous iteration. A new five-speed manual gearbox with improved shift quality was mated to the new six in SE (if the six was ordered) and Sport models, and a four-speed automatic was standard on Cherokee Classic and Limited.
The Limited traded its monochromatic appearance for a flashier appearance this year. Chrome highlights on the grille, headlight bezels and rear license plate brow along with silver alloy wheels served to further distinguish the Limited from the other Cherokees.
Lastly, some new colors debuted, including Patriot Blue and Silverstone Pearls.
The last year for the Cherokee, 2001, would pass without much fanfare. The 2.5-liter four-cylinder engine was finally buried, child seat tether anchors debuted, and Steel Blue replaced Desert Sand on the color chart.
1984-1996
Much in the same way that American automakers had downsized many of their cars in the previous decade, Jeep downsized one of its nameplates, the Cherokee, for 1984.
Prior to this year, the Cherokee moniker was attached to what amounted to a sportier version of Jeep's Wagoneer. Mostly unchanged since its debut in the early 1960s, the Wagoneer was a large, truck-based, four-door wagon with four-wheel drive.
The former Cherokee, introduced as a 1974, shared most everything with the Wagoneer, including dimensions and engine selections. The major differences between the two were that the Cherokee was initially available only as a two-door (with the same wheelbase and length as the Wagoneer) and the Cherokee cost less than the more luxurious Wagoneer. A four-door Cherokee joined the lineup in 1977.
The 1984 Cherokee shared nothing with its predecessor, save its name. A shorter wheel- base (over 7 inches less than the "old" model, at 101.4 inches) and overall length (at 165.3 inches, a decrease of 21 inches) combined with a much lighter weight of around 3,100 pounds (over 1,000 pounds less than before) went a long way toward better fuel mileage and easier maneuverability, on-road or off. Two-door and four-door body styles were offered.
Styling for the trim Cherokee was chiseled and taut, with muscular wheel well flares and a tall greenhouse that afforded good visibility for driver and passengers alike. The interior continued this theme with a likewise simple dash and control layout. Seating capacity was listed as five, though it was tight for three adults to ride in the backseat.
Trim levels were comprised of the base Cherokee, more luxurious Pioneer and the sporty Chief. The Pioneer featured carpeting, additional instrument panel gauges, full center console and a rear window wiper/washer. The Chief was the most stylin' of the trio with blackout exterior trim, hood striping and white-lettered tires.
Motive force came in the form of either four- or six-cylinder power. The 2.5-liter four banger inhaled its fuel and air through a one-barrel carburetor and made 105 horsepower. The optional, 2.8-liter, two-barrel V6 (which was actually supplied by Chevrolet) produced but 115 horses. Although these powerplants were adequate, serious thrust for the Cherokee was a still a few years away. There were three transmission choices for the V6: a standard four-speed manual, optional five-speed manual and optional three-speed automatic. The four-cylinder was limited to the four-speed manual as its gearbox.
Considered by many as the leader in the four-wheel-drive (4WD) vehicle segment, Jeep offered not one but two 4WD systems for the Cherokee. "Command-Trac" was a part-time, shift-on-the-fly unit and the "Selec-Trac" system allowed the option of full-time 4WD operation. A "Quadra-Link" front suspension design (which featured a solid axle suspended by coil springs and four links) contributed to the Cherokee's quickly acquired reputation for off-road prowess.
The new Cherokee was well received by the motoring press and the buying public alike, with nearly 78,000 Cherokees sold in its first year.
1985 brought the Laredo trim level to the Cherokee family. Standard on the Laredo were most of the features of the Pioneer with upgrades such as plusher interior materials, pinstripes, alloy wheels and chrome grille treatment.
Changes to the Cherokee in general included the addition of front headrests and passenger assist handles (for easier ingress and egress as well as something to hold on to when the driver went hog wild off-road). Two-wheel-drive versions were now offered for those who didn't need the capabilities of four-wheel drive. A few new options debuted as well, such as keyless entry and a Renault-sourced, four-cylinder, turbodiesel engine.
Two major hardware upgrades were hot topics for the Cherokee in 1986. A redesigned and more powerful four-cylinder engine was now standard. The replacement of the stone-age carburetor with fuel injection helped the 2.5-liter mill pump out a respectable 117 horsepower, an increase of 12 horses over the previous motor. Smoother operation and easier starting were other benefits of the more modern induction setup.
Geared toward serious off-road enthusiasts was a new "Off-Highway Vehicle" package that included heavy-duty suspension components, bigger (225/75/15) tires, skid plates, tow hooks, a 4:10 rear axle ratio (to help in climbing up steep grades and slogging through mud) and higher ground clearance.
Serious power became an option in 1987 when Jeep dumped the 2.8 V6 and put a stout, 4.0-liter, inline six-cylinder engine of Jeep's design on the option list. Kicking out 177 horsepower, the new "Power-Tech Six" could catapult the Cherokee from rest to 60 mph in around 9 seconds -- pretty quick, especially for an SUV. Another benefit of the increased muscle was more towing capacity -- rated at 5,000 pounds. The 2.5-liter, four-cylinder was tweaked for an additional four horsepower, for a total of 121 ponies.
A new, electronically controlled, four-speed automatic transmission replaced the former three-cog unit. The new automatic also offered selectable shift modes: Power (which provided better performance through higher-rpm upshifts and quicker downshifts) and Comfort (which was more relaxed and economical in operation). And the primitive, four-speed manual was history, leaving the five-speed for shift-it-yourselfers.
Cosmetically, the Cherokee received the option of two-tone paint. Inside the cabin were found new door trim panels with stowage bins.
A new, loaded-up Limited four-door model debuted halfway through the model year. Just about every luxury, performance and convenience feature was standard on the new top dog Cherokee. The Limited came with the powerful, 4.0-liter inline six teamed with Selec-Trac and could be identified by its color-keyed bumpers, gold wheels and gold pinstripes. Leather seats, power everything, keyless entry and an eight-speaker sound system were additional highlights of the Limited's lengthy standard equipment list.
Other models received minor changes, such as new plaid seats in the Laredo and revised blackout trim on the Chief.
1988 saw the addition of a Limited two-door and the subtraction of the unpopular turbodiesel engine option. Sharp-eyed enthusiasts could discern an '88 by a new eight-slot grille that replaced the former 10-slot unit.
Laredo models received new chrome trim as well as lower bodyside cladding. In an effort to offer a Cherokee for everyone (and leave no part of the potential market uncovered), a Sport two-door model was offered. The Sport added alloy wheels and special graphics to the plain-Jane Cherokee, allowing those on a budget to drive a sharp rig without breaking the bank.
The availability (on models equipped with the 4.0-liter engine, automatic transmission and Selec-Trac) of a four-wheel, antilock braking system (ABS) was the big news for the 1989 Cherokee. Jeep's ABS operated regardless of whether the Cherokee was in 2WD or 4WD (unlike some competitors who offered either only rear-wheel ABS or four-wheel ABS that wouldn't function when the vehicle was in 4WD).
Other functional upgrades for 1989 included two former options that were made standard. Base models received power steering and all Cherokees swapped their former 13.5-gallon fuel tank for a 20-gallon unit.
Changes were few for Jeep's most popular model for 1990. Safety was improved through the fitment of three-point seatbelts for all outboard occupants. And a new overhead console on the Limited featured a compass, outside thermometer and storage compartments for a garage door control and sunglasses.
Power for both the four- and the six-cylinder engines was boosted for 1991. A new, multi-point fuel-injection system helped the four-banger squeeze out 130 horsepower an increase of nine horses over the 1990 model. And the big six now cranked out 190 horsepower, bringing the zero to 60 mph time of the Cherokee down to under nine seconds.
Trim levels were shuffled about; the Pioneer was dropped, a new Briarwood debuted, (identified by its fake woodgrain trim on the bodysides) and a four-door Sport model joined the two-door Sport.
Making life easier for the owner of a '91 Cherokee were new double-sided keys, highlighted underhood service points and an optional illuminated entry system.
1992 saw carpeting added to the standard features of the base Cherokee. And Laredo four-doors could now be fitted with (optional) leather seating, just like the fancier Limited. Other than this, not much else changed for the Cherokee this year.
The Cherokee line was simplified for 1993, as the previous five trim levels gave way to just three; base, Sport and the new Country. The Country featured champagne-colored lower body, fender flares and bumpers as well as most of the luxury features of the defunct Limited. And Sport models were updated with a two-tone treatment that featured black on the lower body sides.
A long-life, stainless steel exhaust system was fitted to all models, helping to lower ownership costs.
Safety refinements were added for 1994. Side-impact beams were now found in the doors, the roof was beefed up for more crush resistance and a center, high-mounted stoplight sat atop the liftgate. Air conditioning now used CFC-free refrigerant.
For those who didn't like the champagne (the color, not the libation) of the year before, the Country was now available with silver as the secondary color. And in an effort to make the base model sound more appealing, the entry-level Cherokee now had the "SE" moniker added to its name.
In spite of looking very much like the 1984 version, the Cherokee continued to be popular among those looking for a manageable (both in size and cost) and capable SUV. 1995 brought a few notable changes, a driver's side airbag and the availability of an automatic (albeit just a three-speed) transmission for the four-cylinder SE. Sport and Country models continued with the 4.0-liter, six-cylinder engine hooked up to either a five-speed manual or four-speed automatic gearbox. A few new colors, such as Moss Green and Aqua Pearl, completed the changes for this year.
Minor refinements continued for the Cherokee in 1996. Both the four- and six-cylinder engines were tweaked to run smoother and quieter. The inline six now produced its power at lower rpm, making it more responsive whether accelerating from a light or towing a trailer up a steep grade.
Safety and reliability were both enhanced this year. An automatic transmission/brake pedal interlock reduced the chance of an accident by requiring the driver to apply the brake when moving the gear selector out of Park. The electrical system was upgraded via a heavy-duty alternator and battery. And the engine received a stiffer block, new aluminum pistons and a new powertrain control module.
In addition to the aforementioned improvements, some new colors, such as Bright Jade and Stone White, helped extend the appeal of the Cherokee, now in its 13th model year.
1997-2001
Fourteen years after it debuted, the Cherokee finally received a facelift, well, actually quite a bit more than a facelift. The $215 million update occurred in 1997 when the front and rear ends were smoothed out, the interior was updated and noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) levels were reduced.
Although one had to look close to pick off a '97 versus an older Cherokee, a more cohesive appearance was achieved via softened corners at the nose and tail and with wheelwell flares that blended into the bumper ends. The front vent windows were dropped for a cleaner look and lessened wind noise, and larger side-view mirrors, new bodyside moldings, new wheels, optional deep-tint glass and a center high-mounted stop lamp completed the changes outside.
Inside, change was much more apparent, as the more modern cabin featured several key improvements in ergonomics, safety and style. A new dash (now with a passenger airbag), revised gauges and a new center stack with easier to use controls for the stereo (now available with both cassette and CD players) and climate control system sported a cleaner design with fewer pieces, which decreased the likelihood of squeaks and rattles. Other interior refinements included new door panels, lighted power mirror and window switches, a trip computer for the overhead console and a new center console that boasted integrated cupholders.
In an effort to improve build quality, Jeep made changes to the plant that made the body panels, using new or reconditioned stamping dies and tighter tolerances. More testing, including all electrical functions and increased use of robotic paint sprayers were employed, as well.
Having made extensive engine refinements in 1996, Jeep left well enough alone, but did improve the electrical system via upgraded connectors and a decreased amount of wiring.
For 1998 trim levels were juggled. The Limited returned to replace the Country as the top-of-the-line Cherokee, and the Classic debuted, slotted between the Sport and the Limited. The Classic added color-keyed bumpers and moldings, a roof rack, air conditioning, power mirrors and alloy wheels to the Sport. Three new colors, Chili Pepper Red, Deep Amethyst and Emerald Green, joined the palette.
Soldiering on into 1999, the Cherokee line continued with minor changes. The Sport model now had color-keyed bumpers and grille, a Sentry Key anti-theft system debuted, heated front seats became optional on the Limited, and engine efficiency was improved via revised electronics and a new exhaust catalyst.
The 2000 Cherokee got a more refined version of the 4.0-liter inline six. Introduced the previous year in the Grand Cherokee, the revamped engine ran quieter and cleaner (it now met Low Emission Vehicle standards) than the previous iteration. A new five-speed manual gearbox with improved shift quality was mated to the new six in SE (if the six was ordered) and Sport models, and a four-speed automatic was standard on Cherokee Classic and Limited.
The Limited traded its monochromatic appearance for a flashier appearance this year. Chrome highlights on the grille, headlight bezels and rear license plate brow along with silver alloy wheels served to further distinguish the Limited from the other Cherokees.
Lastly, some new colors debuted, including Patriot Blue and Silverstone Pearls.
The last year for the Cherokee, 2001, would pass without much fanfare. The 2.5-liter four-cylinder engine was finally buried, child seat tether anchors debuted, and Steel Blue replaced Desert Sand on the color chart.
Monday, January 3, 2011
new injectors
Bosch Design II, 19 lb/h, 204cc/min flow rate, high impedance injectors arrived today.
4 hole spray disc
4 hole spray disc
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