ZJ tie rod upgrade

ordered V8 ZJ tie rod to beef up steering. They are solid and really beefy. 

Moog Part Number

Tie Rod End    ES3096L
Adjusting Sleeve    ES2079S
Tie Rod    DS1312

 driver side tie rod arrived with zerk fitting, another one don't have

 replaces ruber boots with old poly

 Almost finished, will do alignment.

Coils and shocks

Starting installation of Rusty's 3" HD coil and 3" shocks.

Old coil is from W124 MB S500 and installed with 2" spacer, but passenger side lower was broken. Shocks were korean made nitro shocks, for 3" lift.

broken :-( 

Rusty's shocks arrived with red poly bushings, hope they last long :) 

LCA  was very hard to align, used a hydraulic jack and a stand (actually wrench extension) a lot. Finally successfully aligned and bolt tightened.

underside

Headlight wiring

Long ago I installed 100/90W H4 bulbs on my headlight. It seems bit dim and checked voltage at headlight socket, was 10.74V at low beam and 9.77 on high beam, lamps were disconnected. Battery voltage was 12.1V when engine not running, it is a huge drop. Decided to rewire headlamps, original wiring for relay activation and direct power feed from accu to lamps.

1 relay (20A) for high beam and 1 (20A) for low beam.

 

inline 15A fuse on wire to accu +. 100W/12V=8.33A maximum

little wiring protection

tested voltages on lamp socket while engine running and lamps on. 13.23V at low beam and 13.15V on high beam.

PCM capacitor replacement

Replaced capacitors in PCM. Prepared 220uF, 35V and 50V 105 degree rated, electrolyte capacitors.

PCM

the taller one was 470uF, not a 220uF :(

old capacitors seems not leaked, but 21 years of duty is not a joke.  

backside

removed silicone around capacitors and new capacitors installed. 

used 2x220uF in replacement of 470uF 

fill space with silicone

box prepared

and DONE

ready to go.

 

 installed back and started engine. It starts immediately on first turn. Before it start after 20-30 seconds cranking,  3 or 4 try.

Poser shot

Exhaust manifold

Exhaust manifold was cracked long time ago, once repaired using high temp exhaust putty.

It was temporary fix and I ordered new one from 1Aauto, part# 1AEEM00146. Arrived with felpro manifold and flange gaskets.

note down  and mark all electrical, vacuum connections and start.

1. Anyway, disconnect battery

2. Disconnect throttle cable, transmission pressure cable and cruise control cable (if equipped)

3. Remove air filter box

4. Disconnect vacuum hoses (MAP, brake, regulator, CCV/PCV etc)

5. Disconnect electrical connections (water temp sensor, injectors etc)
6. Loosen belt and remove power steering pump
7. Remove upper bolt of PS pump bracket and loosen lower one

8. Loosen bolts and nuts of intake/exhaust manifold (they are 15mm), remove top 4 and bottom 4 bolts. Leave 2 bolts and 1 stud of exhaust manifold.

9. Pull out intake manifold and be prepared, there would be sooo dirty.

 

Flange nut was really hard to open, brake fluid helps a lot. 

Poor old boy, you served well on those years...

lots of build-ups here:

and there:

Inserted cloth in holes and soaked with carb cleaner frequently and remove all residues of old gasket.

Lots of carb cleaner and some beer required to fully remove all dirt.

nice and clean

new manifold with flange gasket


test fit

go ahead with installation ("installation is reverse of removal")

Connect everything and check again

Reset ECU/PCM and start engine.

lots of smoke from new exhaust, don't worry. Like all new parts, exhaust manifold arrive with oil and we have to burn them all.